From Design to Solid Gold Jewelry
The Aquajools Journal Craftsmanship
From a small wax model to a piece of solid gold.
A finished jewel reveals its shape and shine. Less visible is the work that gives it form. This guide explores lost-wax casting, one of the techniques used in fine jewelry making, and the distinction between solid gold and a gold-colored surface.
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What is lost-wax casting?
Lost-wax casting turns a temporary model into metal jewelry. The model is enclosed in a heat-resistant mold and removed by heating, leaving a cavity for molten gold.
From design to finished jewelry
01 — Shape the idea
A sketch or digital design establishes the proportions. A physical wax model brings that design into three dimensions.
02 — Prepare the model
The model may be carved or produced digitally. For repeat designs, a reusable rubber or silicone mold can make additional wax copies.
03-Build the casting tree
Wax models are attached to channels called sprues. These connect to a central stem, creating a route for the metal.
Form the investment mold
The assembly is surrounded by investment material. Once it sets, a controlled heating cycle removes the models and prepares the mold.
05 — Cast in gold
Molten gold alloy fills the cavity. After cooling, the investment is removed to reveal the cast pieces.
06 — Refine the surface
The pieces are separated from the tree. Attachment marks are removed and surfaces refined before polishing.
Complete the design
Depending on the piece, finishing can include assembling findings, setting gemstones and engraving.
What makes it solid gold?
Solid gold jewelry is made from a gold alloy throughout the metal, rather than a thin gold layer over a different base metal. “Solid gold” does not mean pure 24K gold, and it does not by itself describe whether a design has hollow sections.
14K gold contains approximately 58.3% pure gold; 18K contains 75%. Other metals in the alloy influence its color and working properties. The karat describes the gold content, while casting describes how a piece is formed.
Always check the individual product description for its gold purity, dimensions, gemstones and included chain.
A closer look at the details
Is every gold jewel made by casting?
No. Jewelry can also be made from sheet, wire or assembled components. The most suitable method depends on the design. This article explains casting as a technique, rather than specifying the production method of every Aquajools piece.
Does the wax remain inside?
The temporary model is removed during the casting process. It is not intended to remain as a core inside the finished casting.
Can a cast piece be personalized?
Suitable surfaces can be engraved after casting. Available personalization depends on the particular design and the space it provides.
At Aquajools, a name, a date or a personal message can make a jewel meaningful. Explore our solid gold pendants, solid gold necklaces and personalized jewelry to find a piece that tells your story.
Further reading: Gold purity and color — World Gold Council.